New England Ropes (Maxim ropes)

New England Ropes is one of the major rope manufacturers in the United States. Their climbing brand is Maxim, which is well known around the world, although not so much in New Zealand and Australia, yet.

So we thought we should start with a recommendation. Kiwi climber Graham Zimmerman used Maxim ropes on the super-technical first ascent of Vitalogy on the southeast buttress of Mt Bradley in Alaska:

"We used Maxim's 8.0mm Unity half ropes on Vitalogy. They make for a very durable, light and easy-handling double-rope system. They held up extremely well while never giving us any trouble. A really wonderful rope. I have used the Maxim Pinnacle 9.5mm from Yosemite to Smith Rock in North America with nothing but satisfaction. It has great handling and is super durable – a perfect choice for cragging, multipitch or wall routes." Graham Zimmerman

Half ropes
Unity 8mm x 50m STD-DRY TPT NZ$205
Unity 8mm x 50m 2X-DRY TPT NZ$270
Unity 8mm x 60m 2X-DRY TPT NZ$320 sold out!
Unity 9mm x 60m 2X-DRY NZ$330

Single ropes
Equinox 10.2mm x 60m STD-DRY NZ$230 sold out!
Glider 9.9mm x 60m 2X-DRY TPT NZ$360
Pinnacle 9.5mm x 60m 2X-DRY TPT NZ$360

Rope diameter (half ropes versus single ropes)
Half (thinner) ropes are particularly suited to general mountaineering and ice and mixed climbing because (1) they are light, (2) your climbing partner probably has one too, and thus, you can tie them together to make longer abseils, (3) they stretch more and thus put less force on your protection when you fall and (4) climbing with two half ropes rather than one single rope reduces rope drag.

Single (thicker) ropes are particularly suited to climbing at the rock crag and some climbers prefer them for alpine rock climbing. The more you intend to hang off the rope (e.g., while top roping), the thicker you will want the rope to be (to extend the life of your rope).

Dry treatment (STD-DRY and 2X-DRY)
Dry treatments reduce the amount of water that your rope will absorb. The more water a rope absorbs, the heavier it gets and the poorer it performs. Dry treatments are more crucial to mountaineers, who use and carry their ropes in worse conditions. The standard (STD-DRY) treatment is a single coating applied to the individual yarns of the rope core. The 2X-DRY treatment is the same but with an additional coating applied to the outside of the rope, which is then heated. The heat helps the coating bond with the nylon at a molecular level, which allows the coating to adhere more effectively to the outside of the rope. Basically the 2X-DRY treatment lasts longer because of this heat treatment.

Twill pattern technology (TPT)
TPT is a unique thread pattern that results in the rope having less friction and (initially) improved abrasion resistance over sharp edges (due to the rope having a smaller profile). If the rope is running over an abrasive surface, a rope with TPT will glide more smoothly whereas other ropes will pick and abrade. This is a particular advantge if you are climbing in areas with high-friction rock (e.g., granite in the Darrans) or having to pull down two ropes after abseiling. However, if a TPT rope rubs back and forth over an abrasive surface at the same spot on the rope, it will show damage more quickly than a non-TPT rope. Hence, TPT is less recommended if you will use your rope predominantly for top roping.

The Equinox rope
Why is the price so good for the Equinox rope? The only differences between the Equinox and the more expensive Maxim ropes are that it has a STD-DRY treatment, has a conventional thread pattern rather than TPT, and is largely uncoloured (simply to reduce the cost). The Equinox is super value as a cragging rope.

Rope specifications

• The 8mm Unity ropes weigh 48g/m, hold eight UIAA falls, and have a UIAA impact force of 6.0kN.
• The 9mm Unity ropes weigh 53g/m, hold 12 UIAA falls, and have a UIAA impact force of 6.3kN.
• The 10.2mm Equinox ropes weigh 66g/m, hold nine UIAA falls, and have a UIAA impact force of 9.8kN.
• The 9.9mm Glider ropes weigh 63g/m, hold seven UIAA falls, and have a UIAA impact force of 9.5kN.
• The 9.5mm Pinnacle ropes weigh 61g/m, hold seven UIAA falls, and have a UIAA impact force of 9.4kN.

Note that the UIAA tests for half ropes and single ropes differ, so you can't compare ratings between half ropes and full ropes. To give some context, UIAA falls are severe falls, and it is possible (and indeed likely) that a rope won't experience such a fall in its lifetime. Note that the impact force is the force that is imparted on the climbers and protection during a UIAA fall, and it is not a measurement of the force that the rope can withstand; hence, a lower impact force is better. Thinner ropes impart lower impact forces because they stretch more.

Simond Dyneema sewn slings

60cm or 120cm, 22kN. Dyneema is the lightweight sling you find on most camming devices and hexes. Very light and low bulk for its strength, it keeps your harness clutter free and doesn’t weigh a ton when wet.

dyneema 60cm sling NZ$12
dyneema 120cm sling NZ$16

Simond Calcit Helmet

Mountaineering helmets need a polystyrene core. It is this core that protects your head from impact in every direction (from above and to the sides, front and back). This is why cycle helmets have a polystyrene core. By contrast, an old-fashioned hard-plastic climbing helmet with a webbing cradle for the head offers protection only from falling ice and rock, and not from side impacts that occur during a fall. The Simond Calcit helmet has a polystyrene core covered by a tough polycarbonate shell that isn’t damaged by your partner dropping ice on you on the crux pitch. It also has flexible headlamp clips that don't require fingernails of steel to use and a most excellent quick-fit-adjustment dial on the headband. The Calcit comes in two sizes: medium and large, with those having a head diameter of 57 cm or less needing the medium size. The Calcit is super light, with the large size weighing 275 grams.

calcit NZ$100

Simond Toucan

A belay and abseil device for a single or two half ropes. Spring action for smooth belaying of the leader, self-locks to about 300kg when bringing up the second climber, which also permits belaying of second and third climbers simultaneously. Has a lever for the controlled giving of slack during traverses and lowering. It takes a bit of practice to work out all the different configurations but if you are an alpine rock climber it is well worth consideration. Email us and we'll send you a few diagrams.

2010 toucan NZ$25 (was $45)

Simond Cubik

A belay and abseil device. The resistance (friction) can be varied, in particular the V-notches are designed to provide more resistance for half and twin ropes frequently used by mountaineers.

cubik NZ$30

Simond Ice Rack

A rack for organising ice screws and rock protection on your harness. It allows single-handed placements of ice screws, and also allows different length screws to be separated and keeps protection away from your pack's belt. Ideal for clipping axes at belays and when moving from ice to rock. Both hangers clip through one gear loop on your harness to keep the rack stable.

rack NZ$45 sold out!

Simond Abalahook

A hook for creating Abalokov (V-thread) anchors on ice.

abalahook NZ$40